Photo: Le Jardin © Hôtel de Russie Rome
Paris, Geneva, Rome: the Holy Trinity reimagined on the plate. Let’s make September a gentler month thanks to three exceptional gourmet rendezvous. Le Monde Économique shares its three favourite addresses.
By Sabah Kaddouri
In a city where beauty is everywhere, where the very foundations of urban architecture were laid, one savours the simple pleasure of being here. Simply, joyfully. Rome is an open-air museum, a life-size film set inhabited by Fellini’s masterpiece, La Dolce Vita. From black and white to the very 2020s Emily in Paris escaping to Rome, the Eternal City captivates us, whatever the era, whatever the lens… The capital also stirs plenty of passions, as shown by the political sparring – friendly or not – between the French president and the mayor of Rome over the Netflix phenomenon series. Bye-bye Paris? The question, it seems, reminded the City of Light that it does indeed have a rival capable of challenging it. A truth etched into the twinning treaty between the two planetary power centres: “Solo Parigi è degna di Roma, solo Roma è degna di Parigi.” (Only Paris is worthy of Rome, only Rome is worthy of Paris). Fascinating Rome, with an address to match: Hôtel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Collection. A place suspended between mirage and reality, between plenty and Olympus.
I am talking about an address once frequented by Jean Cocteau, Picasso and Audrey Hepburn, and by contemporary names such as Julia Roberts and Amal Clooney. A hotel built in 1818 where two centuries of history intersect. A dinner at Le Jardin is the kind of experience that belongs on every bucket list; in fact, be sure to book well in advance if you want to make it a reality. In the heart of the Italian capital lies 2,800 m² of luxuriant greenery, majestically watched over by stone goddesses. Hôtel de Russie invites its guests to step outside time and enjoy a magical epicurean moment. A living city, a noisy city, buzzing with honking Vespas and overheated conversations… the frenzy of life itself. At Hôtel de Russie, the tranquillity of a fragrant garden opens its arms to you. In the background, sumptuous antique busts entwined with climbing roses, and citrus scents perfuming the air.
The only murmur you hear is the sound of the surrounding fountains… In this “earthly paradise”, as Cocteau called it, you can enjoy a typically local cuisine, stripped of unnecessary embellishment.
The spaghetti with fresh tomatoes and basil are pure Italy; the burrata with heritage tomatoes and avocado is unanimously praised by diners; the sea bass baked in a pink Himalayan salt crust and the lamb medallion with aubergine caponata rival one another in flavour in the hands of Chefs Fulvio Pierangelini and Alessandro Buffolino, a duo perfectly calibrated to keep a table among the most sought-after in Rome. Right to the end, the transalpine register is carried through with the house tiramisu. Exquisite.
In the final third of the meal, a warm conversation begins with the maître d’hôtel, who knows the classics inside out. Never revealing any names, he regales you with juicy anecdotes that help sustain the legend of Hôtel de Russie. In two centuries, this place of retreat has become one of the very pulse points of Rome, the immortal city.
The two go hand in hand, reflected in the same mirror of nobility and excellence. We leave Rome for Paris, its equal. Another brilliant garden awaits us for a five-star experience. At Bristol Paris, everything is luxury, calm and pleasure. For one hundred years. The palace of palaces – flagship of the Oetker Hotels galaxy – has left its mark on generations. This Parisian address has earned its place in the diaries of those who shape the world, from haute couture runways to the corridors of politico-economic power. Gastro-diplomacy is a daily practice at Le Jardin Français; here, aesthetes understand that the right setting can only bode well for fruitful conversation. Taking up one’s place at the table of Michelin-starred Chef Arnaud Faye is another signal to one’s guests, who will appreciate the gesture.
In this summer of unprecedented heat, Paris has its haven of peace. Dining outdoors is once again a pleasure, and one that can now be enjoyed in the Bristol’s inner courtyard. A discreet terrace, conceived as a true extension of the palace, an open-air space welcoming Parisians and visitors alike for lunch, tea time or an enchanting dinner. At the helm, Executive Chef Arnaud Faye and his brigade of Bristolians work in unison to make every meal a gourmet moment. The seasonal menu, clear and contemporary, centred on the product, makes repeat visits worthwhile if only to explore it in full. If you are thirsty and feel the need to refresh your palate, your wish is granted! Order the sea bream carpaccio with chimichurri sauce, followed by the Cavaillon melon plate. A fine opening move to counter the blazing sun. The dishes that follow now present us with quite the culinary dilemma… beef tartare hand-cut with a knife or salmon cooked on one side only? Cod loin with shellfish or the “Ateliers du Bristol” pasta?
You absolutely must come back before returning to Switzerland! For lovers of Grand Cru teas and a black coffee, there is one unmissable rendezvous: tea time and its trolley of house-made delights. Settle into the leafy setting of the terrace, in the shade of the parasols, for a journey within the journey. On the menu: savoury bites, pre-dessert and a selection of divine pastries. Wild strawberry fraisier with elderflower, the Piedmont hazelnut, and a medley of cakes – unquestionably the best in Paris… The difference at Le Bristol Paris undoubtedly lies in its pursuit of excellence, dedicating an entire hotel floor to its culinary workshops. Bread-making, pasta-making, cheese room, chocolate workshop… the address at 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is indeed the home of gourmets who care about eating well.
Geneva is one of those destinations where the culinary scene is in constant motion. The City of Calvin fully lives up to its global-city status and capital-city aura. The trio of friends – Mark Sali, Michaël Bodar and Marc Eric Torres – have struck again, opening another fashionable venue in the wake of Manhattan Café. These troublemakers have pulled off the feat of bringing the Big Apple and Geneva into dialogue in this high-octane spot. Now they are whisking foodies away to the Far East, at Nama Restaurant, which puts Japan on a pedestal. The location alone says a great deal about the ambitions of the address on rue du Rhône. Think Paris’s Avenue Montaigne or London’s Knightsbridge. Between two luxury shopping trips, this is where one gladly stops for a meal. Japanese cuisine is one of those that can win near-unanimous approval. For the uninitiated and the hesitant, several “classic” dishes will reassure them (Entrecôte platter, devilled eggs…).
But it is really for the delicious sushi, gyoza, hosomaki and dragon rolls that people make the trip. At Nama Restaurant, the team did not want to merely skim the Japanese repertoire from afar, so Luxembourg co-owner Michaël Bodar spent some time in the Land of the Rising Sun to understand the history and nuances of this cuisine. The restaurant has also secured the services of Chef Dipak Kunwar, tasked with composing the menu according to the rules of the art. Nothing has been left on the surface: Geneva is a city of detail, theorised by master watchmakers and chocolatiers. The name “Nama”, meaning “raw” in Japanese, reflects the philosophy of the founding trio: to offer excellent products, prepared with respect for flavour and ingredients. Fish comes in every possible guise, from crying tiger to miso mayonnaise. Meat lovers, meanwhile, are well fed and reassured to see that food is taken seriously here. The tomahawk pieces melt in the mouth, while the Krowa ribeye looks royal on the menu… You can read it in the ecstatic expressions of the diners.
The plate is not the only ingredient infusing happiness around you, because the carefully designed décor elevates the experience. Outside, a beautiful terrace gives financial Geneva a Provençal-village feel. One can hardly resist the invitation to a country escape. Inside, fir-green armchairs and life-size cherry blossom arrangements brighten the Japanese-inspired atmosphere. The welcome from the stylish maîtres d’hôtel completes that feel-good sensation. On some evenings, a gifted portrait artist makes his way across the restaurant’s parquet floor. Do not be shy, and do not be on the defensive… Add laughter to your evening, along with plenty of memories!
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