Photo © Jérôme Mondière

Sometimes a single family, or a single address, is all it takes to put a place on the world map. Joigny, a small town in Burgundy-Franche-Comté, owes its international culinary reputation to the Lorain family, whose story is one of fine dining and of handing the torch from one generation to the next. Four generations have kept the house alive for 80 years, a milestone well worth the journey. Le Monde Économique visited this Relais & Châteaux property, which has stood the test of time through consistency and vision.

By Sabah Kaddouri

With its half-timbered houses huddled together above the Yonne valley, Joigny, a town of art and history, is utterly captivating. It recalls those Swiss villages where life drifts by to the sound of canals, church bells and children’s laughter. Here, people go about their business without ever resembling their city counterparts, always in a hurry and a little stressed. Those city dwellers, often from Paris or Geneva, have one place where they can slow down: La Côte Saint-Jacques. Time seems to stand still here. The grand residence is a destination in its own right, comprising a five-star hotel with 22 rooms and suites and a more intimate “Maison de Famille” with 10 rooms, all facing the river. A private tunnel even runs beneath the main road, linking the original building to the rest of the property. The 800 m² spa, with its indoor pool, panoramic hot tub, hammam and sauna, invites guests to recharge and unwind, body and mind.

What began in 1945 as a modest guesthouse run by Marie Lorain has grown, over the decades, into something truly extraordinary. Its reputation among food lovers soon spread well beyond France, and it became one of the very first properties in the world to earn the Relais & Châteaux label. Passed from mother to son, from father to son and from husband to wife, La Côte Saint-Jacques has preserved its culinary tradition while keeping both excellence and memory alive. Within the walls of this warm and welcoming house, guests come above all to indulge their palate and their senses. In the kitchen, the charismatic Alexandre Bondoux now carries the family legacy forward. Barely into his thirties, he trained around the world, from New Zealand to Thailand by way of the revered Lyon school, before completing his apprenticeship with two intense years alongside patriarch Jean-Michel Lorain. The Lorains take the Chinese proverb to heart: “Time and patience turn the mulberry leaf into silk.”

The handover took place in 2023, a vintage year of major change for the five-star property: both restaurants were completely redesigned, along with several of the rooms. More beautiful than ever, the new Côte Saint-Jacques can now rival some of the most iconic establishments in Switzerland or Paris, with more space to boot. At the helm, Chef Alexandre Bondoux has thrown himself into the role with heart and energy, involved at every level. With 2026 marking 80 years of fine dining, the new master of the house is already looking ahead to the centenary, a historic milestone he is preparing for now. “It is no small thing to follow Jean-Michel Lorain, who held a third Michelin star at La Côte Saint-Jacques for so many years. I am well aware of the expectations and the challenges. Our restaurant draws food lovers from one generation to the next, who come eager to taste our signature dishes. Many of them will always stay on the menu, because they are part of our identity. Above all, there is a heritage to uphold: generous, indulgent cooking and a love of fine sauces,” Chef Bondoux tells us.

The purists can rest easy. And there are many of them, some of them very distinguished indeed. Step into the kitchen near the chef’s table, where delighted guests watch the action up close, and one wall immediately catches the eye: a vivid tribute to the illustrious guests who have stayed at La Côte Saint-Jacques. From His Majesty King Charles III, then Prince of Wales, to Jacques Chirac, Alain Delon and Cristiano Ronaldo, the decades have produced a “Wall of Fame” worthy of Hollywood’s Walk of Fame. It is a remarkable destiny for Joigny, a town whose history has become intertwined with that of the Lorain family.

Which ingredients does the chef champion? “Citrus fruit, and the acidity I like to bring to my dishes, as in my crab with apricots or my tuna topped with raspberries. These pairings change with the seasons. When I eat out, I like to order meat, but funnily enough, I prefer cooking fish. Inspiration can strike when I wake up in the morning, when I’m walking in the forest or spending time with my daughter,” he tells us before a fully booked evening service. A large party of Texans has just been seated.

The house is in good hands and heading in the right direction. Young Chef Alexandre Bondoux, [Gault&Millau 2027 …], shows remarkable culinary maturity as he maps out the decades ahead. In this new chapter, cooking responsibly will matter more than ever: following the seasons, strengthening local supply chains and reinforcing the Lorain name. It is a name to honour, and one that carries obligations. Refinement, technique, innovation, accolades: Alexandre Bondoux is equally at ease in every register, as a single stay makes clear. Critics and food writers regularly report on the institution in the press, and La Côte Saint-Jacques was recently named “Best Brigade in France”.

Consistency is the watchword here.

The urge to plan another escape to this gem is strong. Between the warm welcome of the lady of the house, Karine Lorain, who has turned the property into a genuine art gallery, the attentiveness of the staff and the many experiences on offer, we have found the ideal pied-à-terre just across the border.

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