Photo © Comptoir des Fables

A distinctly Parisian table that takes us travelling from the very first bite. Chef Guillaume Dehecq’s cooking tells a delicious story — so much so that this spot has become the neighbourhood canteen, discovered by discerning visitors. Face to face.

By Sabah Kaddouri

Why cooking?

Chef Guillaume Dehecq: I became interested in it at the age of 15, so you could say it was a calling. I did an apprenticeship and honed my skills alongside Michelin-starred chefs after joining the Four Seasons George V in Paris, and later Ledoyen with Yannick Alléno. And I have always loved to eat!

It sounds like the kind of family meals that leave a mark…

Exactly! At home, we always treated mealtimes as sacred moments, symbols of sharing and family warmth. My grandmother was a fishmonger, so there was always a deep respect for produce from both land and sea. As for my mother, she was a superb cook, and she made every meal a point of honour.

Which products do you champion?

All seasonal produce — I don’t want to import red berries in winter. Yes, some guests still want to find certain ingredients even when they are out of season, so I make a point of adding creative touches to satisfy their palates nonetheless. I play with flavours through unexpected pairings, and I enjoy deconstructing dishes to awaken the taste buds…

Any dish in mind?

I’ll wrap the gambas in a thin sheet of brick pastry and serve them with a delicate mango and basil sauce, alongside a red tuna ceviche prepared like a tartare. It all comes with a beautiful interplay of textures to maintain balance and lead to a subtle explosion on the palate. The grilled lamb pita with Greek yoghurt and red lentil hummus is also a signature dish that goes down very well. If I were dining at my own restaurant, that is definitely what I would order!

Your cooking clearly reflects a love of travel…

I have always loved exploring the world, even though I have never worked abroad. Besides, people often travel with preconceived ideas! I have this need to get away, to feel, to discover. From Singapore to Thailand, via Algeria, Jordan or the United States… Every two years, I take a two-month trip. It allows me to explore the local culinary scene and come back ever more inspired. This idea of pita, pomegranate molasses and za’atar comes from Jordan, and I also draw on condiments from Thailand. I twist ingredients to create a contemporary cuisine. Together with my sous-chefs, we work every day to delight our customers, as well as ourselves! If the kitchen is a place of pleasure, that inevitably comes through in the dishes.

It is surprising that you have never worked abroad, given how sought-after French chefs are!

I am very happy and fulfilled in France. I have the right balance between professional and private life. And I am able to satisfy my passion for travel by travelling regularly and bringing that hobby into my cooking. I also want to showcase the expertise of our French producers. That locavore, roots-oriented dimension matters a great deal to me. My spices come from a chef based in Brittany who works with small local cooperatives. I am a “Chti” (from northern France) — my parents are from Valenciennes, a region with which I have a strong bond.

Let’s stay in Valenciennes — what does a warm Sunday meal look like to you?

Without hesitation: roast chicken with mashed potatoes. On winter days, it would be a good pot-au-feu. We would keep the leftovers to make a delicious parmentier the next day. A couscous could also bring everyone together. In fact, I like bringing the pot to the table, because nothing encourages sharing more.

You are all about generosity; that sense of sharing clearly matters to you…

Yes, I come back to that sacred mealtime I have always known. Lunch and dinner are pauses outside social constraints; they should create bonds and make people feel happy. So I try to put sharing dishes on the menu, such as côte de bœuf, stuffed cabbage, or a beautiful piece of fish. I also do this with shareable starters. In addition, I don’t necessarily gravitate towards noble products such as lobster, because I believe other dishes can be elevated through a specific seasoning, a reworked cooking method, or an inventive pairing.

A successful bet, because your table is almost gastronomic!

I am fortunate to enjoy a great deal of creative freedom thanks to the owner of the place. I can venture into different worlds to reinvent classics from the repertoire. I also want to salute the remarkable work of my two sous-chefs. The restaurant’s hushed atmosphere further contributes to the understated chic throughout the space.

To conclude, Chef Dehecq: your cuisine in three words?

Generosity, sharing and rigour.

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