Photo © Auberg Jeu de Paume

A taste for escape — and for indulgence

We slip away to Chantilly, a royal town steeped in heritage, for a timeless interlude. There, at L’Auberge du Jeu de Paume, a Relais & Châteaux property and part of the SANA Hotels collection, we discover a refined art of living, carefully preserved. Happiness is the reward.

By Sabah Kaddouri

Long owned by Prince Aga Khan, the hotel on Rue du Connétable sits seamlessly within the Domaine de Chantilly, a short stroll from the masterpieces of the Musée Condé (Delacroix, Corot, Raphael…), the Grandes Écuries and the racecourse. Opened in 2012, L’Auberge du Jeu de Paume feels entirely at one with its surroundings, so naturally does its architecture converse with the grand residences next door. In 2023 it was acquired by the Portuguese group SANA Hotels, a change of ownership handled with elegance and vision. This jewel is the Portuguese hospitality leader’s first foothold in France, and a grand entrance onto the French hotel scene. It is also a clear sign of renewal for this distinguished address, which has been spared the fate of a sleeping beauty.

The five-star hotel takes its name from the neighbouring Jeu de Paume, the real-tennis court built in the 18th century by Louis-Joseph, Prince of Condé. Architect Didier Poignant of the ERTIM agency designed a building that respects both its setting and the strict requirements of France’s Historic Monuments authorities. No small achievement. Just 25 minutes from Charles de Gaulle Airport and 30 minutes from Paris, the hotel draws Parisians in need of a break, travellers from the French regions in search of experiential stays and, of course, guests from across Europe and beyond who share a love of the French art of living.

Warmly welcomed on arrival, guests soon grasp the true meaning of a pause: an escape through time and space. History and dolce vita set the pace of the days for couples, families and friends alike, all delighted by this epicurean journey. Most of the 92 keys (67 rooms and 25 suites) overlook the gardens of the Domaine de Chantilly. The décor brings together the finest materials: toile de Jouy in burgundy or blue with pastoral motifs, Louis XV armchairs, Italian marble, wood panelling and generous drapes, harmonies that recall the refinement of the great houses of the Enlightenment. Yet beyond their classicism, the rooms are genuine living spaces: bright and spacious, ranging from 28 m² to 210 m² for the Arc de Triomphe Presidential Suite, with king-size or twin beds and a separate, wonderfully cosy sitting area. The bathrooms are stocked with Lalique toiletries.

After the long journey from Switzerland, one would happily stay wrapped in a soft bathrobe, savouring room service and a restorative bath… But the call of the Jardin d’Hiver restaurant is impossible to resist. Its bistronomic menu celebrates seasonal produce and the French terroir: fresh octopus with celery, nashi pear and Oscietra caviar; crispy sweetbreads with a silky brown-butter purée. Each dish brightens the table with vivid colours and exquisite aromas. From the very first bite, the delighted smiles around the tables attest to a perfect marriage of beauty and flavour. The promise holds right through to dessert, where a generous selection rewards anyone with a sweet tooth. Roasted figs with almond mousse and honey, or a lemon, hazelnut and Chantilly baba with olive oil, carry diners into rarefied territory. Cheese lovers, meanwhile, can indulge their passion with a largely French selection.

Still holding its Michelin Key, L’Auberge du Jeu de Paume prepares every dish with almost religious devotion, in the spirit of La Table du Connétable, the former Michelin-starred restaurant that built the hotel’s gastronomic reputation. Loyal regulars keep returning, following a menu that changes with the seasons. The Jardin d’Hiver attracts Chantilly locals as well as Parisians, who need travel only half an hour to enjoy the inspired cooking of this Relais & Châteaux house. For business and leisure travellers alike, the hotel has become a gateway to Chantilly, a centuries-old town often compared with Versailles for its refined way of life and rich heritage.

Was Chantilly not, after all, the stage for some of history’s finest banquets? Legend has it that it was in the château kitchens that the master steward Vatel created the famous whipped cream to crown his lavish feast. These festivities were all the more delicate for being meant to seal the reconciliation between Louis XIV and his cousin, the estate’s owner, Louis II de Bourbon-Condé, known as the “Grand Condé”.

Diplomacy passes through the stomach… and peace is within reach of a well-fed guest!

There is so much to do in Chantilly, not least the local pastime: watching the finest equestrian shows and horse races. Horsemanship is woven into the town’s very story.

Reason enough to plan a return trip.

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